We started our perambulation by following a walkway next to the moat that surrounds the FC. At each corner stood two soldiers on ceremonial duty who marched (in an easy fashion) from that position to another and then returned. Our progress alongside the moat was then blocked by a series of private residences, so we continued along a main road until reaching a gate that could have led us into the FC, but was not open to visitors. So, on we plodded, following the massive wall of the FC, now on the inside of the moat in which section pleasure boats could be hired.
We finally got to the courtyard that gets you into the FC, but by now we were too tired and too late to make it worthwhile going in. Instead we made for Tianamen Square, passing through two more courtyards and crossing over the moat before reaching the road that separates the Square from the FC. There was no question of crossing the road, but we eventually found a pedestrian underpass, choosing unfortunately the wrong exit and finding ourselves still on the wrong side of another road that passes in front of the Great Hall of the People. We found a pedestrian crossing, passed through a perfunctory security system, and were finally in this massive area. The centre is dominated by the Memorial to the People’s Revolution, guarded of course by several soldier stations. Visitors could not approach the steps leading up to the Memorial itself, so we contented ourselves with looking at the immense video displays in front which showed off various regions of China.
We walked around the Memorial, looking for Mao’s tomb, but discovered that it was open only in the mornings. The high relief statuary on either side depicted in typically heroic terms the People’s struggle, led by Mao, to overcome the capitalst domination of China. Sun Yat Sen, the father of the revolution, is remebered in name, but it is Mao’s image that dominates the Square.
We practiced our third Chinese expression – boo yao – several times to ward off vendors of guide books, guided tours and the like, but then we were approached in a different way. A young man, whose pinjing name is Paul, engaged us in conversation about where we were from, how long would we be n Beijing, etc. before inviting us to come and see an exhibition of student art work just across the road. Heather couldn’t resist, so we followed Paul across the road while he explained that he was part of a group of art students who had come with their professor to Beijing to display their work to a wider public, and, if possible, to sell it to raise money for scholarships for poor students. We then went into a travel agency and through the back to two rooms where the work was displayed. Paul introduced us to two other students who also spoke English very competently and gave us a tour of the various works, explaining their significance to untrained Western eyes. Before the tour one of the students used his caligraphic skills to create a “little gift” – our names transposed into Chinese characters with a symbol for good luck (of which there are a hundred variations) – which had to be allowed to dry for a few minutes.
At the end of the guided tour, we agreed to buy two of the professors watercolours (Y600), one student work (bamboo on a blue background Y200), and a student watercolour of a concubine (Y200). The creator of this last piece was one of the three students there, and he was very pleased to know that his work would be seen outside China and that would make his mother proud.
We also agreed to take a tour to the Great Wall and the Ming Tombs at a cheaper rate than the one offered by the hotel. Paul took the details of the hotel and gave us his phone number so we could call to confirm the day (I called today to confirm Sunday), and we paid a deposit of Y100, the balance, Y300, to be paid at the end of the tour. It will mean an early start -- 8 am – but will be worth the effort. I am assuming that the business Paul directs to the travel agency is part payment for the use of their premises.
When we got back to the hotel we were too tired to contemplate an extended evening with Gordon, so I phoned to let him know. Instead we went to a nearby restaurant where we managed to order a reasonable meal. It was noisy, smoking was allowed at some tables (!), and the service seemed to be a mixture of waitress serving and self-serving. We were served all that we had ordered fairly quickly, but noticed that some customers went up to the counter to purchase extra dishes or drinks.
Another early night!
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